![]() Unfortunately, I was one of the receivers of more skin than juice. The problem with that is some people got more skin (if scooped off top) than others. At crush pad the fruit was crushed in big batches into bins, then the fruit was distributed by scooping the fruit into individual’s containers. As a member of Sacramento Home Winemakers Club, I was one of at least 15 members that purchased a group buy of the fruit. and 35% Merlot, both from Alexander Valley, CA. Second I have a 15 gallons 65% Cabernet Sauv. I wonder what your thoughts are on the subject and what is best.įirst I look forward to reading your articles “Advanced Winemaking” in WineMaker Mag. Add required SO2 for that pH and move on. I have always added acid until I reach the top end of the recommended TA charts and then stuck a fork in it. You know the TA is now off the charts and I would assume the wine would taste pretty tart. I have talked with a couple of winemakers that say you only need to pay attention to pH and they keep adding Tartaric until the pH is down to ~3.5. You add 20 grams or so of Tartaric and the pH drops a bit to 3.8 but the TA is now ~.7 You are at the top end of the recommended TA but your pH is still pretty ugly. That is a must with high pH and average TA (such as Syrah and Petit Syrah) What do you do with a must with say a pH of ~3.9 and TA of 0.5 to start. ![]() I have your book but can’t seem to find the answer to this problem which happens frequently with grapes grown in warmer AVA’s such as Lodi. PH is not a factor given your numbers and winemaking it sounds like it’s in a normal range, Rack the wine with aeration, stirring the lees frequently over a 48-hour period, and then re-introduce the lees into the wine. This is my bit since the researchers’ work is based on wine aging barrels. ![]() Here’s a technique (based on some well-known French researchers’ work) I have read about but never tried.įirst, rack the wine off the gross lees BUT save the lees.Īdd some oak chips in the carboy or container, and let stand for at least 3-4 days. Let fermentation complete on the finer lees.ĭepending on the severity of H2S, racking might not do anything. I would rack the wine off the Haskap skins and gross lees. What was the SO2 level at inoculation? If high, that might be a cause. I don’t know if there is anything in Haskap that would trigger additional sulfur (and H2S) production. ![]() Nutrient requirements also depend on your fruit and the condition, not just the yeast. It would seem to me that you would have wanted to deacidify the Haskap, not the Merlot. Wow! You’re quite the experimental alchemist!!ĭisclaimer: I don’t know anything about winemaking with Haskap. ![]()
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